martes, 10 de marzo de 2009

Libro "The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates" por Tony Butt

El oceanografo, tamañero, amigo... Tony Butt, acaba de sacar al mercado hoy hoy el 10 de marzo de 2009 (1 aniversario del Gran Temporal del 10M 2008) su ultimo libro:

"The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates"

Cubre todo desde geologia del litoral, ciclos climaticos y olas grandes, hasta erosion costera, tsunamis y los efectos del calentamiento global en el surf.

Todo ello explicado en terminos faciles de comprender por el resto de humanos y con unas ilustraciones claras. Un libro de gran ayuda para cualquier surfista que desee comprender en detalle que es lo que forma esas conciciones que a todos nos gusta surfear.

Tony tambien es el autor del libro "Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing"

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The Surfer's Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates

Author: Tony Butt
ISBN: 9780906720585
Following international acclaim for Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing (Alison Hodge, 2002), Tony Butt’s The Surfer’s Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates will appeal to surfers and all those who are fascinated by the sea and the coast.
The perfect wave is every surfer’s dream. But where does that wave come from, and what makes it perfect? It doesn’t just appear on the coast, but may be the result of a storm thousands of kilometres away, which depends on the air flow in the upper atmosphere; this, in turn, may rely on long-term atmospheric patterns that affect the entire globe. When a swell arrives at the coast, it already has its own unique character. But whether the waves are going to be rights, lefts, short, long, fast, hollow, or even rideable at all, depends on the characteristics of the coast. And the coast itself is the result of a unique set of processes, linked to the rest of the planet and going back into the depths of time.
The Surfer’s Guide to Waves, Coasts and Climates covers everything from coastal geology, climatic cycles and big waves, to coastal erosion, tsunamis and the effects of global warming on the surf. All this is explained in layman’s terms, with clear illustrations, so all you need to enjoy it is curiosity and a liking for the coast and the waves.

Dr Tony Butt started surfing in the early 1970s on the south coast of England. After many years travelling and wondering where the waves came from, he decided to go back to school, and obtained a PhD in Physical Oceanography. He is the main author of Surf Science: An Introduction to Waves for Surfing, and has written many articles on the science of surfing and the coastal environment. He is currently a Visiting Fellow at the Coastal Processes Research Group, University of Plymouth, England, and has a regular oceanography column in The Surfer’s Path magazine. He lives in a forgotten corner of north-west Spain, enjoying a few big uncrowded waves and a bit of peace and quiet. He runs a wave prediction website,

1st edition
Paperback with flaps
176 pages
60 photographs, 30 figures, 11 charts, 11 maps
246 x 189mm


Coastal Geology
1 Waves and Beaches
2 Reefs
3 Rivermouths

Climate and Big Waves
4 Climatic Cycles, Storminess and Surf
5 Searching for the Biggest Waves
6 Controlling the Waves: Every Surfer’s Dream?

Coastal Intervention
7 Coastal Erosion
8 Coastal Modification and the Surf
9 Oil Spills and Ecocide

The Planet Bites Back
10 Tropical Cyclones
11 Global Warming and the Surf
12 Tsunamis

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2 comentarios:

  1. this book has absolutely amazing photos. I love the cover photo. Waves are soooo crazy!

  2. Prefiero hablar con el mil veces mas que leerme el libro.