domingo, 18 de diciembre de 2011

Paipo trip

Day one
Start of the trip and a new spot. This board was made by Chris Garrett on specifications supplied by Larry Goddard, the creator of the design. The board is based on Larry's Makaha Master design. Although designed as a twin fin it is being ridden finless. Footage taken by John Kovar.
Day two
Surfing includes David Guy and John Kovar on malaroo made by John. BG is riding a Galera nofin paipo. Fun can be had even on real small days.
Day three
Biggest and cleanest day. The board being ridden is a Nofin paipo made by John Galera of Hawaii. Footage taken by John Kovar.

Pierre Louis Costes

Pierre Louis Costes Hawaii

domingo, 25 de septiembre de 2011

Hawaiian traditional surfing

Hawaiian traditional surfing from Jonathan Clay on Vimeo.

Hawaiian surf-pro Tom Pohaku-Stone surfs a traditional wooden surfboard that he himself shaped.
This is a sequence from the "Oceans" episode of the BBC's documentary series "Human Planet".
Note to moderators: this sequence was filmed by myself for the BBC.

jueves, 22 de septiembre de 2011

Alaia by Hydrodinamica

Alaia from Hydrodynamica on Vimeo.

The alaia was the high performance surfboard of ancient Hawaii. While smaller paipo-type boards were common throughout Oceana, they were rarely large enough to stand up on and were usually surfed prone or while kneeling. Riding while standing set Hawaiian surfing apart, and the alaia was the board that allowed for the most expressive and creative stand up surfing. A true Hawaiian alaia would be made under traditional Hawaiian ritual in Hawaii. The boards used in the Hydrodynamica Project are alaia-inspired, they are not true Hawaiian alaias. That being said, these alaia-inspired boards, built and designed by Jon Wegener, illustrate the amazing performance capabilities of this ancient Hawaiian design.

jueves, 30 de junio de 2011

A Paipo Interview with Tom Wegener by Bob Green

A Paipo Interview with Tom Wegener
Relearning ancient wisdom
May 1, 2010 - Noosa Heads, Queensland, Australia.
Questions and telephone interview by Bob Green.

Tom enjoying a Noosa righthander lying down.

Photo courtesy Tom Wegener.
  1. When and where did you start surfing?
In 1976, when I was 9 or 10 years old at Palos Verdes Cove. Palos Verdes is a little quiet town just out of Los Angeles, but it does have PaddleBoard Cove which was very famous in the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s, as it was the top surf spot even before Malibu became famous. The Cove has gentle rolling waves and it is the closest thing to Waikiki that California has to offer. So all the surfers would go there in the 1930s and 1940s. Tom Blake was there, Doc Ball was there. That’s where they surfed and that’s where they took those photos of these guys riding planks (the cover of the book, Time of the Terrace Land). That’s what enamoured me with surfing, just the thought, the smile and the energy of these old black and white photos.

You described still being haunted by this photo of people on planks.
To me that was what surfing was all about. That’s what surfing was to me. None of the competitiveness and aggression, just the sliding into a gentle swell. I was really young. Getting into the wave early was really important then, it still is. Before the swell breaks the wave moves faster in the open ocean. You can see a swell drag along the bottom and slow down as it breaks. The earlier you catch the swell, the faster you are going and you are really moving across it when it breaks.

It all comes back to speed.

I love speed. Speed is everything.


Tom with a 5' x 20" paulownia bellyboard made for Bob Green.

Tom tubed at King Isand Photo by Sean Davey

Tom bottom turning at King Island  Photo by Sean Davey.





jueves, 9 de junio de 2011

La Oficina de hechos por Jon Amiano

Video grabado y editado por Jon Amiano, Musica de Unai Azkune... Luis surfeando la alaia , conocida como "la trece", Nacho estiloso en su blon... pasen y vean!!!

oficina de hechos from caballo salvaje on Vimeo.
Una semana con la oficina de

hechos; últimos preparativos de esa

mortadela fina con la que trabajan.

Pero siempre sacando tiempo para

lo que mas les gusta: dibujar las

olas, igual que sus tazas, sin una

pincelada fuera de lugar.

14 pies de Tuna!!!


Tom wegener 14 ft tuna. yep! from matt williams on Vimeo.
This is Tom wegener on his 14 foot tuna at noosa heads QLD. notice how fast he is going on 6 inch wave. the boards is a finless hollow 14 foot tuna with a concave from the tail to about 3/4 of the way up the board. it can and will make every section you throw at it..!
Tom Wegener surfeando un Tuna de 14 pies!!!

Tunas... tablas sin quillas, la evolucion

La primera tabla que aparece en el video es la primera tuna hecha por Tom Wegener en Junio de 2008 con cantos de Paulownia, tapa y fondo de contrachapado. Es el inicio de una saga de tablas que culmina con el Seaglass Project.

martes, 24 de mayo de 2011

Andrew Serrano en Lobitos, Peru

El Dorado La pelicula

Una sesión mágica de surf con alaias. Kepa, Jon, Luis y Nando con tablas de Tom Wegener y Salva Artaza. Música: Leo Delibes - Dúo de las flores de Lakmé, Unai Azkune - El argentino + Erregua. Grabado por Salva y editado por Nacho. Una nueva producción de la Oficina de Hechos y el País de los Juguetes.
Existe otra entrada de blog del mismo dia con la poesia de Luis Tejerina "Salvaje"

Untitled from Oficina de hechos on Vimeo.

sábado, 21 de mayo de 2011

Into the tree


Into the Tree-- The Teaser from Travellers Brothel on Vimeo.
Teaser of "Into the Tree"

a surf movie about the fine art of alaia's riding by an italian Surfer, Damiano Tullio.



Teaser Locations:

Italy: Ostia Beach, Focene Beach

Iraland: Bundoran



Full Movie Locations:

Italy, France, Ireland, Spain, Lofoten Islands



Thanx To: Alaia Religion, Redz Surfboards, Travellers' Brothel, Whole Lotta Lovi AKA Lemming

domingo, 24 de abril de 2011

El Dorado

Últimos momentos de unos días mágicos.
Surfing => disfrutar => conjunción mágica de los elementos.
Agua: mar y una marejada preciosa.
Aire: viento del sureste.
Tierra: Unos buenos fondos. Tablas de madera.
Fuego: Sol abrasador.

La tierra puso su parte. La otra parte, la humana: Jon, Salva, Nando, Javi y Luis.

Jon

Nando

Luis

Buscando las gemas salvajes... el doradoooo


SALVAJE..

En ocasiones
todo cuadra,
todo funciona,

momentos mágicos
que tiene la vida.
Y a veces me pregunto
por qué sera tan difícil,
si es tan sencilla
como vivirla.
Remas, remas buscando las líneas.
El agua arropa tu cuerpo
las olas lo acarician.
Te montas encima de una,
te deslizas.
Caballo salvaje 
que se deja montar.
Donde estas es único,
otro lugar,
energía por la que surcar.
Tu cuerpo se moldea
forma parte del mar,
de la tierra ,
del planeta,
de un cosmos infinito.
Respeto al árbol 
que me dió mi tabla 
al mar que me deja
jugar,
al viento que lo moldea
en olas preciosas,
al fuego,
sol que calienta  mi alma.
Caballo salvaje 
es el surfear.

Felicidad

Texto: Luis Tejerina
Fotos: Javi Amilibia




jueves, 17 de marzo de 2011

Noosa Festival of surfing 2011

Algunas fotos del Noosa Festival of surfing 2011 relacionadas con el surf sin quillas.
MoonwalkerPhotos.com

Noosa Festival of surfing 2011

CHRISTIAN WACH Finless floater on TW Tuna

Finless Final Noosa 2011

Matt Williams Lala

Tom riding a Seaglass project Tuna

martes, 15 de febrero de 2011

Montezuma, the surfer.

Si Montezuma, Moctezuma, Moteczoma, Motecuhzoma, Moteuczomah habria vivido en la costa, lo mas probable es que seria un buen surfer que tendria la capacidad de surfear olos alaias paipos manoplas y demas jugetes.


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sábado, 5 de febrero de 2011

Sesion de shapeo de Alaia en la ISPO de Donostia dias 6 al 9 de Febrero de 2011..

 Una marca nueva de surf de Donosti estará presentando su colección en la próxima ISPO. Harán un evento en vivo donde mostraran el proceso de creación de una Alaia en conjunto con Hiddenwood.

Me encantara ir a la reunión,!!! mas datos abajo:





Press-Release
02–2011

Head Office
Calle de Narrica, 1
20003 San Sebastian (Donosti)
Spain

Sergio Penzo - General Enquiries
sergio@twothirds.com

Jan Groenendijlk - Central Europe
jan@twothirds.com
www.twothirds.com


PRESS RELEASE

TWOTHIRDS & HIDDENWOOD WILL BE SHOWING HOW TO SHAPE AN ALAIA AT ISPO

Riding an Alaia (a Hawaiian ancestral surfboard) is the closest a surfer can be to the natural environment.
Non to say its a very environmental friendly board. It comes from plantation grown trees, often organi-
cally grown. Manufacturing uses a minimal amount of fossil energy and the glue used by Hiddenwood is
based on natural by products.
The craftmanship behind the shape of an Alaia is of maximum importance. Each millimeter of roll,
concave, thickness and curve makes a world of difference of how the board rides. It is the passion for
details, the love for craftmanship and connection to the environment, that brings together TWOTHIRDS
and Hiddenwood in this exciting live event. It will be happening at ISPO on February 7th, 17:00, hall A2,
booth 124.

TWOTHIRDS, THE BLUE COMPANY
The dedication to the ocean has blended into every aspect of our company so we are constantly looking
for ways of reducing our impact. For example one of the biggest problems is that our oceans are tur-
ning into giant landfills of plastic so we have replaced the polyester bags that are commonly used today
throughout the fashion industry with an innovative bag developed by a laboratory in England that dissol-
ves completely into water without leaving any harmful residues.

Also the paper we use is made out of recycled algae that would otherwise clog up the Venice lagoon. But
our biggest commitment is reflected with the donation of 10% of our proceeds to Oceana (oceana.org), the
worlds biggest organization dedicated to protecting and preserving our oceans.

p. 2/2

OUR COLLECTION:
Our collection comes from our need to speak to the surfer living in European cities. So when we are
designing our lines we pull out from what we wear as well as what we love. The collection reflects our
closeness to the ocean and our surfing lifestyle but also the sophistication of San Sebastian and its sur-
roundings, the city, the art, architecture, food, and the people. So our brand has appealed to all sort’s of
customers. From the hardcore surfer to the high-end fashion crowd.

The love for craftsmanship, attention to detail and a puristic approach to surfing are the concepts that
inspired the fall/winter 2011 Collection. We approached every piece in the collection with the passion of a
craftsman and marveled at the infinite possibilities that lay ahead.

The upcoming collection includes tees, shirts, jackets, chinos, and premium knits made of organic cotton,
chlorine free merino and cashmere. Together with the Cashmere Series, one of our most rewarding pro-
jects was developing a bag made from used fishing nets. The Saco Duffel Bag reminds us that anything is
possible and that we must never stop seeking new and creative ways to protect our oceans. They are our
reason for being.

LINKS
web: www.twothirds.com
blog: http://blog.2thirds.com
community: www.facebook.com/twothirds

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Nous serons présent sur le salon de l'ISPO à Munich du 6 au 9 février dans le cadre d'une collab avec la marque espagnole de San Sébastien TWOTHIRDS avec qui nous travaillons depuis plusieurs mois sur divers projets.
Une demo de shape d'alaia se déroulera le lundi 7 à 17h sur le stand de TWOTHIRDS et nos alaias et handplanes seront exposés durant toute la durée du salon.



TWOTHIRDS est une marque de textile qui travaille en relation avec l'océan et la protection de l'environnement sur l'ensemble de leurs produits,distribution et promotion grâce à une production coton bio, des emballages totalement biodégradables et 10% de leurs bénéfices reversés à Oceana (oceana.org), le tout avec passion et créativité.



allez voir leur travail qui vaut le détour:


www.twothirds.com
http://blog.2thirds.com
www.facebook.com/twothirds