Relearning ancient wisdom
May 1, 2010 - Noosa Heads, Queensland, Australia.
Questions and telephone interview by Bob Green.
|Tom enjoying a Noosa righthander lying down. |
Photo courtesy Tom Wegener.
- When and where did you start surfing?
You described still being haunted by this photo of people on planks.
To me that was what surfing was all about. That’s what surfing was to me. None of the competitiveness and aggression, just the sliding into a gentle swell. I was really young. Getting into the wave early was really important then, it still is. Before the swell breaks the wave moves faster in the open ocean. You can see a swell drag along the bottom and slow down as it breaks. The earlier you catch the swell, the faster you are going and you are really moving across it when it breaks.
It all comes back to speed.
I love speed. Speed is everything.
|Tom with a 5' x 20" paulownia bellyboard made for Bob Green.|
|Tom tubed at King Isand Photo by Sean Davey|
|Tom bottom turning at King Island Photo by Sean Davey. |
........ Full article at mypaipoboards